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Method 1. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Probe the wood to determine the extent of the rot. To gauge how bad the problem is, go around the entire window frame applying pressure to the wood every 2—3 inches 5. Otherwise, you may miss a spot. Scrape out small rotted spots with a screwdriver or chisel. Dig the tip of your tool into the bad wood and work it free of the frame. Continue gouging and scraping until only hard, healthy wood remains.
If you leave any behind, it could easily spread to another part of the frame. Most epoxies consist of two separate bonding components that need to be combined in equal parts in order to be effective. Follow the mixing instructions listed on the packaging to prepare enough epoxy to patch each individual spot you uncovered while probing.
Apply the epoxy to the damaged area using a putty knife. Slather on enough to overfill the spot slightly—you can sand away the excess later. After building up each spot, glide the flat side of your putty knife over the epoxy a few times as though you were frosting a cake.
This will help produce a smoother finish that you can hide easily with a couple coats of paint. Keep in mind that you'll still need to use a putty knife to spread the epoxy even if you're using a gun to apply it.
Partially-filled holes and crevices could result in unsightly dents and depressions once the area has been repainted. Allow the epoxy to cure for at least hours. As it sits, it will gradually expand to continue filling out the damaged area. It will then harden to form a strong, watertight seal that will do a much better job of keeping unwanted moisture out than new wood or paint alone.
Avoid handling the epoxy in any way as it cures. Doing so could deform it, ruining all of your hard work. Lay trim boards across a pair of sawhorses. Use a brush, roller, sprayer, or some combination of all three to paint your boards before your trim installation begins. Do this for two to three coats to achieve a great finish.
Apply a small amount of the filler with the tip of your finger and to each nail hole. Wait approximately two hours for the filler to cure before using a sheet of grit sandpaper to lightly sand away the excess material.
This will leave a smooth finish and make the holes disappear. Just touch it up with paint or stain, and your project is complete. Disclosure: BobVila. You agree that BobVila. All rights reserved. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY.
Finish by smoothing the caulk with a moistened cloth or finger. Push putty or a paintable caulk into the holes. Use a putty knife to smooth the filler material and scrape off any excess. Check the label on the putty or caulk to figure out how long it takes to dry. Prime and paint the trim as needed. Paint the trim, including the filler in the nail holes, with small, even brush strokes. You can also color wood with a wood stainer instead of paint. Cover bushes and grass with a tarp to protect them from damage.
Did you know you can get expert answers for this article? Unlock expert answers by supporting wikiHow. What are some mistakes you see when people are replacing the trim on their windows? Michael Fox Window Repair Specialist. Michael Fox. Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer. Yes No. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 2. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
You Might Also Like How to. How to. Window Repair Specialist. Expert Interview. More References 3. About This Article. Cut the ends square. Nail those to the rough frame; use a level to set them plumb. Measure across the opening from the outside edges of each vertical trim and cut another 1-by-4 to set across the two sides. Nail that in place. Cut 1-inch corner molding to frame the outsides of the wide trim.
Mark the corner molding to the height of the wide trim on the inside edge and use a miter saw to cut degree miters at the top of two side pieces and both ends of a top piece. Nail the corner molding to the wide trim with small finishing nails. Set the nail heads.
Trim the outside Craftsman style, just like the inside, with a sill plate, two vertical jambs squared at the top and a horizontal jamb across them. Omit the corner molding used on the interior and leave the side jambs open on the edges. Use a 2-byinch board as an apron under the outer sill instead of a 1-by Finish the top of exterior trim with some crown molding capped with a tapered board so water can run off from the wall past the front of the window.
Finish both inside and outside Craftsman trim with window stop, typically a standard milled stop molding for the interior and 1-byinch boards outside.
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